How Long Does Permanent Hair Colour Last? Longevity & Care

Permanent hair colour uses a developer to open the cuticle and deposit pigment inside the hair shaft, changing your natural shade from within. It’s called “permanent” because it doesn’t simply wash out; it grows out with your hair. That said, tone and vibrancy do soften with washing, heat and sun, so the look you love can fade. For most people, colour stays true for roughly 6–12 weeks before a refresh is needed, depending on shade, hair health and aftercare.

This guide sets clear expectations and shows how to extend wear. You’ll learn what really affects longevity (porosity, shade families, washing routine, water quality), the typical timeline from day one to regrowth, and the difference between permanent, demi and semi. We’ll cover everyday protection from heat, UV and chlorine, simple at-home refreshers like glosses and colour-depositing masks, and common mistakes to avoid. We’ll also touch on gentle, plex‑enriched and PPD‑free formulas, so you can choose comfortable colour and keep it glossy for longer.

What determines how long permanent colour lasts

Even though permanent shades live inside the hair, how long your colour looks fresh is driven by a handful of controllable factors. The condition and porosity of your hair, your shade choice, and your daily routine (washing, heat, sun and swimming) have the biggest impact. Water quality and dissolved metals can also distort tone and speed up fade.

• Hair porosity and condition: More porous or damaged hair lets pigments slip out faster, shortening the 6–12 week window many people see.
• Shade depth and family: Reds tend to fade quicker; deeper brunettes and blacks usually hold longer.
• Washing habits: Frequent washing and harsh shampoos accelerate fade. Use colour-safe, low‑pH formulas and lukewarm water.
• Heat and UV exposure: Hot tools and sun break down colour; always use heat/UV protection.
• Chlorine and swimming: Pool water strips tone; saturate hair with fresh water and use a protective leave‑in before swimming.
• Hard water and metals: Mineral build‑up (e.g., copper) can dull or shift colour; clarify gently and protect against metal deposits.

Typical timelines for permanent colour (and what “permanent” really means)

Permanent colour embeds pigment inside the hair, so it won’t simply wash out like semi‑permanent shades. In practice, though, tone and shine do fade with washing, heat and sun. Most people find their permanent hair colour looks its best for around 6–12 weeks, with many opting to refresh somewhere between weeks 6–8. How long your colour lasts within that window depends on shade family, hair condition and aftercare.

• Days 1–14: Colour settles and reflects at its glossiest; protect it and wash gently.
• Weeks 3–5: Subtle softening begins; reds and lighter tones show changes sooner.
• Weeks 6–8: The ideal window for a tonal gloss and/or root refresh for most.
• Weeks 8–12: Noticeable fade or brassiness may appear; deeper shades hold longer.
• Beyond 12 weeks: Pigment remains, but the shade looks different; regrowth contrast often becomes the main reason to recolour.

Permanent vs demi vs semi: durability compared

All colour types fade, but they fade differently. Permanent colour penetrates deeper, so it doesn’t wash out; instead, tone softens and regrowth appears, with most people refreshing every 6–12 weeks. Demi‑permanent uses a low developer to slip a smaller amount of pigment inside the cuticle and typically lasts around 20–28 washes. Semi‑permanent sits on the outer layer, so it fades faster, usually over 10–20 washes, and may linger longer on very porous or darker‑dyed hair.

• Permanent: Longest‑lasting look; grows out rather than washes out; plan gloss/roots at 6–12 weeks.
• Demi‑permanent: Medium durability; gentle fade over roughly 20–28 shampoos.
• Semi‑permanent: Shortest wear; fades in 10–20 shampoos, sometimes longer on damaged hair.

Shade matters: reds, blondes, brunettes and vivids

Shade family affects how long your permanent hair colour lasts: reds fade fastest, while deeper brunettes and blacks usually hold longer. Blonde results rely on toner; as it rinses away, brassiness can creep in, especially on porous, bleached hair. Fashion pastels and vivids often sit closer to the surface, so expect quicker softening.

• Reds: Protect from heat/sun; top up with a colour‑depositing mask at weeks 3–5.
• Blondes: Use purple/blue toners and lukewarm water; shield from chlorine.
• Brunettes/black: Choose low‑pH, colour‑safe care to preserve depth and shine.
• Pastels/vivids: Wash less, use cool water, and plan regular top‑ups.

Hair health and porosity: why damaged hair fades faster

Colour lasts longer when the cuticle is smooth and compact. When hair is damaged or highly porous, the cuticle has gaps that let water in and pigment out, so tones soften sooner within that typical 6–12 week window. Bleaching and frequent heat styling raise porosity, and bleached hair is especially prone to absorbing minerals from water, which can cause discolouration and brassiness.

Focus on strengthening and sealing. Use low‑pH, colour‑safe care to help keep the cuticle tight, add a weekly deep treatment, and choose plex‑enriched colour or aftercare to reinforce the hair during and after colouring. Before swimming, saturate hair with clean water and apply a protective leave‑in to limit chlorine uptake and preserve tone.

Washing routine: shampoo choice, frequency and water temperature

Your wash routine is the single biggest lever on how long permanent hair colour lasts. Water alone can dissolve and draw out dye molecules (reds are most vulnerable), so reduce exposure and protect the cuticle. After colouring, wait 48–72 hours before the first shampoo. Then, keep washes to a minimum, use colour‑safe, low‑pH formulas to help seal the cuticle, and avoid hot water, which can open the cuticle and speed up fade. Finish with a cool rinse for extra shine.

• Pick colour‑safe, low‑pH shampoo: Helps lock in pigments and boost retention.
• Wash less often: Aim for every 2–3 days; use dry shampoo between washes.
• Keep water lukewarm: Hot water stresses hair and encourages colour bleed; cool rinse adds gloss.
• Be gentle: Massage, don’t scrub; rinse thoroughly so residue doesn’t dull tone.

Heat, UV and chlorine: everyday protection that preserves colour

Hot tools, sunshine and pool water are the trio most likely to dull permanent hair colour between salon-style refreshes. Heat and UV stress the cuticle and degrade pigments; chlorine strips moisture and can distort tone. Build simple habits into your routine so shade and shine last longer without sacrificing styling or swim days.

• Always use heat protection: Mist a thermal shield before drying or styling and keep tools on the lowest effective setting.
• Maximise UV defence: Wear a hat and use UV‑protective leave‑ins when outdoors; reapply on long days in the sun.
• Prep before you swim: Saturate hair with clean water and apply a leave‑in; a cap adds extra protection.
• Rinse straight after: Rinse thoroughly post‑pool or sea to minimise drying, fading and tonal shifts.

Hard water and metals: minimise mineral build-up and brassiness

Tap water can carry dissolved minerals and trace metals (notably copper from pipes). On porous or bleached hair these deposits cling to the cuticle, dulling shine, skewing blonde toner warm and even interacting with oxidative colour. If you’re asking how long permanent hair colour lasts, mineral build-up can shorten that 6–12 week sweet spot by pushing tones brassy sooner.

• Use metal-neutralising care: Look for pre-colour or daily formulas that target copper and other metals.
• Rinse right: Wash with lukewarm water, rinse thoroughly, and use a gentle build-up remover made for coloured hair when needed.
• Re-tone between washes: Purple/blue care or colour-depositing masks keep brass at bay and your shade looking fresh.

Aftercare timeline: from the first 72 hours to your next touch-up

The first few days shape how long permanent hair colour lasts, so treat your fresh shade gently. Avoid shampoo for 48–72 hours to let pigments settle, skip hot water and heat tools, and keep hair protected from sun and pool water. After that, a simple week-by-week rhythm keeps tone glossy until your next appointment.

• 0–72 hours: No shampoo. Avoid hot tools and tight styles. If you must rinse, use cool water only.
• Week 1–2: Wash minimally with low‑pH, colour‑safe shampoo; lukewarm water, cool rinse. Always use heat/UV protection.
• Week 3–5: Expect slight softening. Use a colour‑depositing mask or toner and a gentle metal‑neutralising/clarifying step if needed.
• Week 6–8: Ideal window for a gloss/toner and root refresh to revive shine and balance tone.
• Week 8–12: Maintain with fewer washes and cool rinses; book a full refresh if brassiness or fade is noticeable, especially for blondes and reds.

Grey coverage and regrowth: how often to refresh roots

Grey coverage is most reliable with permanent colour, and your regrowth line usually sets the schedule. Most people refresh roots every 6–8 weeks within the broader 6–12‑week window, keeping coverage uniform before contrast becomes obvious. If your natural shade is very different from your chosen colour, you’ll likely prefer the earlier end of that range; if your dyed shade is close to your natural, you can often push later and simply maintain tone through the lengths.

• Book root‑only applications to avoid overlap on lengths.
• Use a temporary root retoucher between touch‑ups.

At-home refresh options: toners, glosses and colour-depositing masks

When you’re stretching the life of permanent colour, quick at‑home refreshers keep tone balanced and shine high between root appointments. Used from weeks 3–8, they help counter brassiness (especially on blondes), revive reds and coppers, and add back the gloss that daily washing and heat can mute.

• Toners (neutralisers): Purple/blue toners cancel yellow/orange in blondes; blue works well for brassy brunettes. Apply to clean, towel‑dried hair for 5–10 minutes; results fade gradually with washes.
• Glosses (clear or tinted): A sheer, demi‑like veil boosts mirror‑shine and softly refines tone; ideal mid‑cycle and fades with shampooing.
• Colour‑depositing masks: Weekly top‑ups for reds, coppers, brunettes and vivids; 10 minutes on damp hair refreshes depth and vibrancy, rinsing out over a few shampoos.
• Pro tips: Strand test, follow timing on pack, rinse cool and finish with colour‑safe care to lock in the refresh.

Gentle, plex-enriched and PPD-free formulas: impact on longevity and comfort

Choosing gentler permanent colour doesn’t mean compromising results. Plex-enriched formulas reinforce the hair’s internal structure during colouring, lowering porosity so pigments stay put longer—helping you get the best from that typical 6–12‑week window. PPD‑free and ammonia‑free options are kinder to sensitive scalps and reduce irritation, making the process more comfortable without inherently shortening wear. As ever, longevity is driven by hair health and aftercare: pair gentle colour with low‑pH, colour‑safe care, heat/UV protection and cooler washes to keep tone glossy for longer.

Common mistakes that make colour fade faster

Even permanent colour can dull early if you slip into habits that lift the cuticle, dissolve pigments or load hair with minerals. If you’re wondering how long permanent hair colour lasts, these pitfalls can cut that window short—avoid them to stay in the 6–12‑week sweet spot.

• Shampooing too soon: within 48–72 hours after colouring.
• Over-washing/harsh shampoo: non colour-safe, high‑pH formulas.
• Hot water: rinses that lift the cuticle.
• No heat/UV shield: styling or sunny days unprotected.
• Unprotected swimming: no pre‑wet, leave‑in or post‑pool rinse.
• Ignoring hard water/metals: skip gentle metal‑neutralising care.

FAQs

Here are quick answers to the most common questions about how long permanent hair colour lasts and how to care for it.

• How long does permanent hair colour last? Typically 6–12 weeks before noticeable fade/regrowth; depends on shade, hair condition and aftercare.
• Does permanent colour wash out? No; it softens over time and grows out, rather than washing out completely.
• Why do reds fade faster? Red pigments are larger/more water‑soluble, so they leach faster with washing.
• When can I wash after colouring? Wait 48–72 hours, then use low‑pH, colour‑safe shampoo and lukewarm water.
• How often should I refresh grey roots? About every 6–8 weeks; use a temporary root retoucher between appointments.

Key takeaways

Permanent colour gives the longest wear but still softens with life; expect 6–12 weeks depending on hair health, shade and aftercare. Keep it glossy by washing less with low‑pH, colour‑safe shampoo, using lukewarm water, and protecting from heat, UV, chlorine and hard water. Re‑tone mid‑cycle with glosses or masks and refresh grey roots every 6–8 weeks. Prefer plex‑enriched, PPD‑free formulas for comfort. Ready to extend your colour’s life? Explore shades and care at Smart Beauty.